Updated On: 18 November, 2024 07:26 AM IST | Mumbai | Fiona Fernandez
The city winners from a recent round of awards honouring the best restaurants from across India, shone a light on the continuing lack of presence that the state’s regional cuisines have in Mumbai

Bharli vangi, dal, rice, bajri bhakri, gur, thecha (a fiery chilli, garlic, peanut mash) and peanut chutney in this typical Maharashtrian spread. Pic/x/@maha_tourism
The more the merrier.’ We hear this line or use it ever so often in routine conversation. Unfortunately, that does not hold true for the city’s restaurant-scape, especially when we take a closer scan at its diversity, cuisine-wise. It’s not a pretty, or shall we say, delicious picture because our large home state’s numerous and distinctly different regions appear nowhere on the chart. A recent, prestigious award to hail the country’s top restaurants, revealed quite a few from the city. And yet, among those winners, barring one space that was an ode to a hip suburb’s take on its people-inspired cuisine, a thorough look at the rest of the names shows no representation of the state’s or city’s own cosmopolitan, diverse flavours. It held a mirror to how underrepresented we are, when it comes to elevating regional fare, let alone take it to a high-end level.
The city scores alright with mid-level seafood fare, celebrating coastal food from various parts of the Konkan. And that’s about it. Here, too, we are yet to see dynamic, out-of-the-box, inspired fine dine restaurants spring up that celebrate this cuisine with a modern, edgy menu to lure the discerning, well-travelled foodie or tourist. The trusted names tucked in the lanes of Fort and Kalaghoda, and the Dadar-Parel belt, continue to be the big daddies. Where is the R&D to show any growth? What about the robust, spicy flavours of Kolhapuri cuisine? Or Nagpur’s famed Saoji cuisine? Try naming a popular dish or a cooking technique from Satara, Nashik, or Sangli? Chances are we’ll draw a blank. That pretty much sums up the scenario.