A taste of tranquillity

Over a hearty meal of dal amti sukki bhaji chicken in kala masala pit fodni cha bhaat and bhakri alongside shrikhand and a tall glass of chaas and the guitarist crooning Milind Inglersquos lsquogarvarsquo mdash we discovered the joys of a simple Maharashtrian thali at Panchratna Gateway Nashikrsquos fine dining restaurant Helmed by Chef Taj Qureshi we also savoured one of the finest shorbas niharis and kebabs here Qureshi brings Lucknowrsquos Aminabad to the quiet greens of Ambad where the hotel is located ldquoIngredients play a deep role in ensuring that the flavours evoke nostalgiardquo he shares It feels like a gentle pause between the cityrsquos restless energy and the calm of the hillsTOMATO SHORBAThe hotelrsquos architecture is rooted in Maratha heritage and inspired by the local Peshwai style mdash think stepped arches jaali patterns traditional motifs natural textures rich stone and elegant material finishes The paintings in the lobby tell the story of Nashik So whether savouring a glass of wine from the vineyards strolling barefoot on dewkissed lawns or enjoying the view this sanctuary invites us to slow life down and make every moment lingerOn the banks of the sacred Godavari River a quick 35hour drive from Mumbai on the Samriddhi Expressway is Maharashtrarsquos oldest and most storied city Nashik What fascinated us was the mesmerising blend of the sacred and the spirited mdash here pilgrims bathe in the Godavari at sunrise and connoisseurs sip Chenin Blanc by sunsetSunil Narayan Wavre right the fourth generation of Kondaji Chivda which still captures Nashikrsquos spiritAt the evening high tea by the pool over batata vadas kothimbir wadis bhajiyas samosas and pillowsoft pav baked inhouse we watched the sky blush in dusk hues listening to the hum of birds returning home The Nandur Madhmeshwar Bird Sanctuary is close by mdash it is home to the Eastern Imperial Eagle Bristled Grassbird Woollynecked Stork Common Pochard White Stork and Peregrine FalconPandavleni cavesOne morning the staff drove us to Pandevleni Cave barely a 10minute drive from the hotel We trekked 248 steps to reach the ancient group of 24 rockcut Buddhist caves dating from the 2nd century BCE to the 6th century CE At the top the views of Nashik are mesmerising Interestingly they served as viharas monasteries for Buddhist monks and feature intricately carved prayer halls water cisterns and ornate facades The site is historically significant for its inscriptions that link it to powerful Satavahana and Kshatrapa rulers offering a glimpse into the regionrsquos political and trade history Back at the hotel a 30minute foot spa was just what we needed to soothe our aching heelsMisal Pav and chai at Deccan Knot under the clear skyFor breakfast we tried misal pav at Deccan Knot a beautiful glasshouse restaurant with centuriesold trees offering their canopy The spicy curry of sprouted moth beans matki topped with farsan and served with soft pav packed a powerful punch to kickstart the day A little later we headed to Vallonneacute Vineyards near Mukhne Dam for a complimentary wine tasting by the hotel The place offers more than just wine mdash itrsquos an immersive sensory journey with lush views of the hills and a lake During the harvest season January to March you can stroll through sunkissed grapevines inhale the earthy aroma of the soil and watch the harvest come to life For the wine tasting we were led by the resident winemaker who guided us through bold Malbecs delicate Roseacutes and rare Anokhee blends sharing the story behind each bottleWe stopped for lunch at the vineyardrsquos Indian and continental restaurant Yelloh and bumped into phone photographer Karl Kolah and Kathak dancer and choreographer Aditya Garud who were vineyardhopping to pick some select wines to take back home In recent decades Nashik has earned a new identity as Indiarsquos wine capital thanks to its mild climate and fertile soil which make it ideal for viticulture Later that evening we head back to the hotel for the Sunset Ritual where the staff gather in the lobby to light traditional lamps while a flute player serenades with folk music to welcome the eveningMATKA CHICKENThe next morning we exchanged notes on places to eat with Kolah and Garud who were headed to Shree Ambika for Nashikrsquos legendary black misal ldquoEven at 1030 am therersquos a long queue of people waiting to get in Shyam Sundar is another misal place we tried and lovedrdquo says Kolah Nashik has a proud meatloving side too that is rooted in Maharashtrian spice and countryside flavours ldquoFor special mutton thali we headed to Divtya Budhlya Machi The meat was marinated in kala masala making it the perfect ghatstyle dish Then one night we were invited to My Oh My for some live music and cocktailsrdquo informs GarudSipping where it all began mdash Vallonneacute Vineyards one of the estates that helped shape Nashikrsquos identity as Indiarsquos wine capitalSuggested by the staff we hunted down Kondaji Chivda one of Nashikrsquos most iconic snacks founded in 1920 by Kondaji Gunaji Wavare as a humble home venture The mix of crisp poha roasted peanuts dry coconut and curry leaves with its signature spice blend is bold addictive and deeply nostalgic Locals rave about its freshness and aroma mdash perfect for train journeys and chaitime alikeSPECIAL MUTTON THALI and MISAL PAV AT SHYAM SUNDAR PicKARL KOLAHToday the fourth generation of the Wavre family continues the tradition keeping Kondaji Chivdarsquos original flavour alive More than a snack itrsquos a bite of Nashikrsquos spirit simple and full of character On our way home we stopped for lunch at Karishma Dhaba on Old Nashik Highway to savour their matka kabab juicy chicken roasted in a matka and simple chicken gravy in kala masala The gravy was packed with flavours and we scooped it with khameeri roti We ended the meal with chai to get us back homeReligious and mythologicalHeld on the Gateway Nashikrsquos palatial grounds this was a replica of the Trimbakeshwar Jatra that features a grand Nandi statue The Jatra is an annual festival that draws devotees to the Trimbakeshwar Shiva Temple one of the twelve JyotirlingasNashikrsquos origins trace back to the Ramayana It is believed to be the site of Panchavati where Lord Rama Sita and Lakshmana spent part of their exile The cityrsquos name comes from Nasika Sanskrit for nose referencing the episode in which Lakshmana cut off the nose nasika of the demoness Shurpanakha To this day Nashik is a primary pilgrimage site hosting the Kumbh Mela every 12 years mdash one of the largest religious gatherings in the world