Capital flavour, Mumbai vibe

A few weeks ago in Delhi we were walking through the lush lawns of the India Habitat Centre when we overheard a woman on the phone slightly flustered Thanks to the previous nightrsquos thunderstorm her Comorin lunch plans had been cancelledEveryone we know in the capital city loves Comorin Launched in 2018 and named in reference to Cape Comorin Kanyakumari the restaurant celebrates familiar Indian flavours thoughtfully reimagined with finesse mdash an experience worthy of Indian Accentrsquos sister restaurant EHV International owns and runs both brands among others including Chor Bizzare Hosa and Fireback Comorin Gurugram has been awarded the lsquoBest Restaurant Bar in Indiarsquo at the 30 Best Bars India awards for four consecutive years and has been voted amongst the top 10 restaurants in India over the last three years at the FoodFood AwardsThe name made us smile mdashwe had a reservation there the next day and had been looking forward to it since we sampled their popup lunch at Joliersquos in Mumbai two years ago It offered a sneak peek into what makes Comorin special regional Indian plates that feel nostalgic and new alongside inventive sous vide cocktails Their Champaran mutton and gucchi pulao still linger in memoryIn Gurugram the Sweet Corn Khichdi Sem ka Beej and Khakra had our hearts Who would think that a khichdi of any kind could occupy a place of pride at a restaurant of this level ldquoComorin being called a modern Indian restaurant is a misnomer we are a restaurant that serves regional comfort food thatrsquos approachablerdquo says Rohit Khattar Founder of EHV International The Lemon Gun Powder Idli Golden Cashews will remain our staple here Also very few chefs can make a mean haleemmdashtopped with crispy onion and served with bakarkhani which is silky and soulfulKashmiri Gucchi Pulao Saffron RaitaThe Tawa Crab Anda Bhurji Chilli Butter Toast Green Chilli Prawns Champaran Mutton Sattu Parantha Ole Ki Chutney and Badam Kathal Ki Nihari Moti Roti are the stuff of every nonvegetarian food loversrsquo dreams We couldnrsquot resist ordering the Pao Bhaji served with one of the best pav rolls mdash small and pillowy smeared with butter We ended the meal with cheeni malai toast honeycomb salted chikki kulfi chocolate and Monaco crumble What truly sets this restaurant apart is the warmth and wisdom with which brand chef Dhiraj Dargan crafts each dish mdashthe spices are perfectly balanced the flavours bold yet familiar and somehow even the most indulgent plates feel light and comfortingCut to last week and Sunday midday was invited for a meal tasting ahead of Comorinrsquos Mumbai launch at Nilaya Anthology a luxury design destination in Lower Parel The brand was originally conceived by company director Rishiv Khattar Rohitrsquos son with interiors by Londonrsquos acclaimed Russell Sage Studio For its Mumbai outpost the team reunited to craft a space that evolves with the daymdashoffering a seamless transition from casual daytime dining to a vibrant latenight experienceNashik Spritz and CaSsattaThe architectural layout executed by Incubis Consultants under overall design guidance of Design Director Rashmi Khattar who has presided over the creation of each restaurant for the group flows into a sundappled orangery at Nilaya creating a striking al fresco extension rarely seen in the city one that is destined to be a stunning new venue for gatherings The space is a tactile journey through Indiarsquos rich material palette mdash wood metal handcrafted tiles and soft fabrics are layered with care creating distinct moods across zonesmdashfrom an open inviting bar with bold design gestures to a more intimate inner sanctum tucked away at the back Whether grabbing a quiet coffee or meeting friends for dinner everything mdash from the warm lighting to the subtle textures mdash invites you to settle in and stay awhileAam Ki Kadhi Khoba RotiWe met Dargan again Calm and entirely in his element he introduces us to the Mumbai addition to the menu We start with the Nimbu Masala Avocado Banarasi Aloo Papad It is a crosscultural conversation on a plate mdash creamy avocado gets a zesty jolt from nimbu masala layered over a crisp salty Banarasistyle aloo papad The Andhra Gongura Chicken with Crispy Murukku is a fiery celebration of Andhrarsquos beloved sorrel leaf The leaf lends the chicken a tangy punch with sour and spicy notes that linger while the crunchy murukku adds texture and nostalgiaAam Ki Kadhi with Khoba Roti Bhakarwadi feels like summer on a plate The ripe mango brings the right amount of sweet and tart to the yoghurt kadhi while the khoya roti mdash a beautifully handpressed Rajasthani flatbread mdash soaks it up with chewy charm And then came the Kashmiri Gucchi Pulao with Saffron Raita mdash a fragrant and decadent dish that felt like a warm embrace Packed with prized morels and mellowed by the floral notes of saffron this pulao is elegant earthy and luxurious without the weightChef Dhiraj Dargan and Rohit KhattarWe washed it all down with housemade sodas Rose and bergamot and Nimbu Chilli Lemongrass from Comorinrsquos signature sous vide infusion counter thoughtfully crafted by EHV Internationalrsquos Head of Bars Mixologist Varun Sharma Expect cocktails on tap and a playful inventive drinks menu with standouts like the Neer More Walnut Sour Fennel Paloma and Mango and Fig Highball If yoursquore in the mood for something a little more polished therersquos also a range of batchbottled cocktails like the Khus Vermouth Negroni Coffee Manhattan Gibson and Smoke amp Agave Martini We met Sharma in Gurugram where his depth of knowledge and storytelling left a lasting impression If you find him at the restaurant take a moment to chat mdash yoursquore in for a delightful dose of insight and anecdotesFor wine lovers Head of Wines Kevin Rodrigues has created an accessible glassbyglass wine programme that encourages the discovery of over 50 carefully selected wines without the pressure of a full bottle In its extremely contemporary setting Comorin Mumbai does not exude a sense of fine dining that feels distant nor is it far too casual mdash itrsquos that rare middle path where a humble khichdi can sit proudly alongside a gin cocktail infused with curry leaves and both feel perfectly at home With its launch in Mumbai it feels like the city will finally catch up with a conversation that Delhi has been leadingmdashabout how Indian food can be deeply comforting yet modern layered and inventive without losing its soulatOptionskeyd0ddb8ef8f1a62a8cdd22fac27fc5ea7formatiframeheight90width728params